Showing posts with label Cambodia. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Cambodia. Show all posts

Monday, July 1, 2013

Bayon

Now, Angkor Wat is the name everyone identifies. But Angkor Wat is one of many such temples that exist in Siem Reap. Few of them older than Angkor Wat, few more grander and bigger. As such, its not possible to get a guide for whole day. For one; its not about the expense; but about the control of time. You have total control of your time and can choose where you want to spend more time and the ones you want to skip.

Nothing is worth skipping but since the sq km area clustered with these temples run into 100s an you may need over a month to visit each one. And if you are from India; you wouldn't really need a guide since the temples are designed around Hindu mythology. Even if you are not a Hindu; you will know most things and then the temples and the art are self explanatory.

After Angkor Wat, we visited Bayon. Bayon is just across Angkor Wat. Its a 12th century temple built by Mahayana Buddhist king Jayavarman VII. Note that Jayavarman VII covered to Buddhism whereas his predecessors were Hindu. The conversion happened due to the influence of Sri Lankan Buddhist monks who visited Angkor kingdom. The capital of Jayavarman VII was Angkor Thom. If you have to visualize, all these places are just less than a km away; but each king had his own capital and a state temple.

Whats special about Bayon is that unlike a conventional temple tower design, the edifice has distinctive feature of numerous and serene stone faces on the many towers. The 54 towers has a total of 216 gigantic faces stares at you. Some historians believe that these are the faces of Bodhisatva called Avalokiteshvara or Lokeshvara while there are also conclusion that the faces may also be of King Jayavarman VII as DEVARAJA "God King" since the stone faces bears a strong resemblance to the king himself. These two theories need not be mutually exclusive. Later part of the 13th century saw the temple undergo modifications when the Khmer empire reverted to Hinduism and further alterations when Theravada Buddhism was adopted.

So what was my reaction? Well, by now I must say I was too stunned to even react. I kept thanking God for blessing me to be able to see these marvels and at the same time; feeling the walls of the temples to confirm I was really there. The feeling is overwhelming; nothing prepares you for that experience. If you ask me to describe in words my feelings; I can't. Visit Siem Reap to understand what I am trying to convey

Such tours are common :)


Bayon first glance


A scene of a day to day life on bas relief. A VIP on his way


Men at work


Elephants at war


Amry at war


Dancers


War scenes



Everyday life of a Khmer


First look at inner courtyard


This is what i was talking about


Alterations - images and sculptures confirming conversion to Hinduism


Leaves you stunned; imagine gigantic faces looking at you which ever way you turn



Inner courtyard



A close up

Size comparison


Apsaras everywhere


A unique one; if you observe the image is smiling and the teeth are visible


I will die to be experiencing this


A very close up of a face. As you go to the top most courtyard; the gigantic faces come face to face with you

Saturday, June 22, 2013

Angkor Wat

These days, it seems I've been irregular at posting my travel sojourn. I do have my reasons. There is so much to share of my travel experiences that it makes me squirm to see my blog becoming a travel blog. It isn't bad but I want my blog to be a place like A Rabbit Hole of "Alice in Wonderland" with varieties.

And another reason is that; jotting down everything that I encounter and experience is what I want to do; but its a draining process; since there is so much; this much; to write. I promise myself that I will be regular and more importantly on time to jot them down here. I shudder to think that my Sri Lankan trip has also been on the line to complete.

Anyway, continuing on Angkor temples. The Angkor Wat, Bayon and Ta Prohm also now referred to as Angelina Jolie temple after few scenes were shot for the movie Tomb Raider are all part of Little Circuit. The temples in the little circuit are all mostly at shorter distances from one another and they are also huge temples.

The day starts at 4 am to be on time to watch the sun rise at Angkor Wat temple. However early you go, you always see crowds that have gathered before your arrival; such is the name and fame of Angkor Wat. Many people place their tripods strategically to capture the sun rise which is again very famous. You need to find a spot to watch the beauty of the sunset and also to take a good pic. Just along the side where people gather to watch sun rise are number of restaurants. Tourists generally take a break for a while after watching sunset to have a hearty breakfast to prepare for their long and exhaustive day ahead; before entering the temple.

These restaurants are just tiny shacks with a couple of plastic chairs and tables; and they are in a row. Each restaurant has a unique name and they are international that can be easily identified by the tourist. The guys and women owners of these shacks walk up to you and mention the restaurant name and the number and ask you to visit them for breakfast after watching sun set. One of the shack could be "Number 4 James Bond" or another one "Number 6 Britney Spears". The strategy is simple; have a name a Westerner can recognize. So you will have them nagging you constantly to visit "Stall no 4 James Bond" for good breakfast.

The shacks that are strategically placed closer to sunrise viewing area are the ones that most people visit; very few venture to the far end. The stalls at the far end have to struggle very hard to get business. There was thing one guy who was not more than 12 years old who had an impeccable English with an American accent. This boy owned or maybe worked in a stall at the far end of the row. He was dirty looking, ragged, wearing torn clothes. You might easily mistake him for a poor Cambodian tramp until he starts speaking. He is poor yes, but his business acumen was laudable. I can never forget him. He came unto us and started(in American impeccable English) "Sir, ma'am would you care for some Coffee and breakfast? My stall is on the left; please sir, this way. This way ma'am"

When we said we will return after watching the sunset, he replied "Sure ma'am. Remember my stall. Pleasure to have you here". Now, the way he approached, his confidence, his etiquette; I am not one bit exaggerating. You get to learn all of that in a business school paying lakhs of rupees. It was unfortunate that we couldn't go to his stall at the far end later; because we were hijacked mid way by a couple and hungry that we were; we settled at the nearest one. The boy was disappointed and said "This is unfair!" and forgot about it the next moment and went off to pursue other tourists. But observing him through the breakfast;   it was obvious that people had no patience to go unto his stall and he lost many customers. While the front stalls got quick customers about 5-6 in 20 mins; he managed just one. When life challenges your existence, you find a way; isn't it?

So the much awaited sun rise at Angkor Wat


The temple of Angkor Wat is one of the largest of the Khmer temples built during the 12th century as Hindu temple. The size of the monument is overwhelming and its not surprising that you need 4-6 hours to soak it up. We started at 6 AM and finished it at 10 AM. There is a "how to explore" guide on the internet. The temple follows the plan of Meru mountain; the secret mountain and thus the five towering gopuras. The outer compound has libraries. The bas reliefs at the main entrance depict stories from the battle of Ramayan and Mahabharat, churning of the ocean by demons and gods to get Amruta, army of the King Suryavarman II and other similar ones on both left and right side.

Ram and Lakshman


Ravana at war against Ram


A partial view of the lengthy bas reliefs


Wooden stair cases to help tourists walk without falling off and also to protect the monument


An Apsara


Scene depicting Mahabharata war


Bhishma pierced by 1000 arrows


These were richly colored; some of the partial colors can be seen here. Imagine the temple in its heydays; richly colored; sculptures studded with precious stones...such grandeur.


Sri Krishna riding the chariot


King Suryavarman II and his ministers giving audience


Soldiers marching to war with horses and elephants


Khmers going to war against Chams


These are Cham soldiers



A day in the life of Khmers


A general going to war


The king going to war. How do we know he is the king? By the number of parasols he is accompanied with


The entrance to inner courtyard


Vandalized images of Hindu gods; the organic color remains


One of the towers


Inside the temple


The last tier


The central courtyard has lot of apsaras


Some more


A pediment richly carved


The topmost central courtyard has images of Buddha; they are worshiped


As seen from above


Another image of Buddha with the Buddhist flag


The central courtyard


A monk


The steps to the top



The round depressions  shows how the stones came here; they were chained and pulled by elephants


The pond and on the other side are the stalls


The baray